Cocoa Tree Chocolate House

262. Cocoa Tree Chocolate House, Pall Mall. On the south side until 1757 when removed to the site of No. 46 on the north side; between 1787 and 1793 removed to No. 64 Pall Mall. In 1799 removed to No. 64 St. James's Street until about 1835; in 1837 the premises were empty. Re-established certainly by 1853 and ended its existence in 1932.

As a Sign, the Cocoa Tree came into use after chocolate was introduced into England about the year 1652. Roger North remarks in 1657 'the use of coffee-houses seems newly improved by a new invention called Chocolate-houses ...' In the same year 'An excellent West India drink called chocolate' is advertised in the 'Publick Advertiser', and on April 24, 1661, Samuel Pepys took his morning draft 'in chocolate' to settle his stomach.

1698

It is not yet known with certainty when the Cocoa Tree Chocolate House was established. According to the L.C.C. Survey of London, the earliest mention is in 1698, when it was on the south side of Pall Mall on the site of the Royal Automobile Club, and it may have been there in 1692. Contemporary mention late-seventeenth century is lacking.

1702–14

Ashton lists the house as The Cocoa Tree Chocolate House, Pall Mall. The house is referred to as the great Chocolate House of the reign of Queen Anne, described as a political house frequented by the Tories. Many references to the Cocoa Tree are to be found in the press, letters, and records of the eighteenth century.

1709–11

No. 64 of the 1709–11 'Tatler', 5 Sept. 1709, carries an advertisement relating to two Irish dogs 'lost from the Cocoa Tree in Pall Mall', and Addison comments in No.1, 'Spectator', 1 March, 1710–11: 'My face is likewise very well known at the Grecian, the Cocoa Tree, and in the theatres ...'

1727

The 'Daily Post' January 1727, advertises: To be let the late dwelling-house of the Rt. Hon. the Earl of Essex, near the Cocoa Tree Chocolate House in Pall Mall; with a garden having a pleasant prospect into the Park.

1727

An advertisement in my collection reads: LOST at New-Market, on Thursday the 13th of April, 1727, A Gold Repeating Watch, in a Black Shagreen Out-side Cafe, the Name Freeman, with a Steel Chain, and a Lady's Picture in Water-Colours, plain set in Gold, with a Christial before it, and in a Black Shagreen Case, and two Seals, Viz. A Red Cornelian Engrav'd with the Devil carrying away Cupit, and the other a White Aggot, Engrav'd with a Head; Whoever brings it to the Cocoa-Tree Chocolate House in Pellmell, or to Mr. Hoop's at the Ram Inn in New-Market, shall have Ten Guineas Reward for the whole, or proportionable for the Picture, or any other Part, and no Questions ask'd.

1727

Another item from my collection, an original letter dated Madrid 20 October, 1727, is addressed to: 'The Right Honorable ye Earle of Craven, London, Coccoa Tree pell mell.'

1735–36

Press mention: 'London Daily Post' 3 June, 1735, and the same paper 25 March 1736, advertises: LOST at the Assembly in the Haymarket on Thursday the 18th a small enamell'd picture, set in gold with three small rose diamonds on the hook. Whoever has found it and will bring it to Mr. Cartiers at the Cocoa Tree in Pall Mall shall receive one guinea reward.

1745–46

Varying dates are ascribed for the conversion of the Cocoa Tree Chocolate House open to the public, to that of a private club for the use of its members. It seems to have taken place about 1745–46. Timbs says 'before 1746'. Wheatley remarks that during the rebellion of 1745, the Cocoa Tree 'was regarded as the headquarters of the Jacobites' and other writers mention that frequenters of the house were suspected of Jacobite sympathies. Timbs quotes a letter of 1746, Horace Walpole to George Montagu: 'The Duke has given Brigadier Morduant the Pretender's coach, on condition he rode up to London in it. "That I will sir" he said, "and drive till it stops of its own accord at the Cocoa-tree".'

1756–57

In 1756–57 the house was frequented by Florence Hensey, the French spy. (See Montpellier Coffee House. No. 1831)

Cocoa Tree Chocolate House

The first known reference to the Cocoa Tree chocolate house is in 1698. During its long career it occupied three different houses in Pall Mall and then moved to No. 64 St. James's Street. At some unknown date it ceased to be a place of public resort and became first a proprietary and then (probably) a members' club. When it ceased to exist in 1932 it was, apart from White's, the only West End club whose ancestry could be traced back to the chocolate houses of the late seventeenth century.

In 1698 there is a reference among the manuscripts of Earl Cowper to 'the Cocoa Tree in the Pell Mell'. (fn. 37) The house which it then occupied stood on part of the site later occupied by Cumberland House and now by the Royal Automobile Club, (fn. 38) and the ratebooks indicate that the proprietor was Sol De Lafoy, who occupied the house from 1692 (perhaps the date of the first establishment of the Cocoa Tree) until 1700–1. De Lafoy was succeeded by Isaac Narsaw (Narso), who occupied the house until 1716 and is mentioned in connexion with the Cocoa Tree chocolate house in a recital in a lease of 1733. (fn. 38) The ratebooks show that the house in question was subsequently occupied from 1717 to 1722 by Matthew Field, from 1723 to 1729 by Martha Field, from 1729 to 1744 by John Cartier(e), and from 1744 to 1756 by Charles Soleirol. Several of the latter's recognizances as the licensed victualler of the Cocoa Tree chocolate house have survived from 1747 to 1752. (fn. 39)

The Cocoa Tree is mentioned as a popular resort in the first number of The Spectator—'my face is likewise very well known at the Grecian, the Cocoa-tree, and in the theatres, both of Drury-lane and the Haymarket'. It appears to have been frequently patronized by Swift (fn. 40) and by 1722 it was evidently regarded as a favoured Tory rendezvous, (fn. 41) a reputation which it continued to enjoy for about the next half-century. At the time of the rebellion of 1745 its habitues were clearly suspected of Jacobite sympathies, for in a letter written shortly after the battle of Culloden Horace Walpole relates that 'the Duke [of Cumberland] has given Brigadier Mordaunt the Pretender's coach, on condition he rode up to London in it. "That I will, Sir," said he, "and drive till it stops of its own accord at the Cocoa Tree." ' (fn. 42)

The ratebooks show that in 1757 Charles Soleirol moved from the south side of Pall Mall to a house on the north side, the site of which is now occupied by No. 46 (the Army and Navy Club annexe). In these new premises he remained the proprietor until 1764, when he was succeeded by Thomas Griffiths, (fn. 18) who continued as proprietor until at least 1787. (fn. 43)

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37. H.M.C., MSS. of Earl Cowper, vol. ii, 1888, p. 373.

38. P.R.O., LRRO63/41, pp. 106–12.

39. M.C.R.O., LV(W)68/293, 343, 400, 442, 498, 539.

40. The Prose Works of Jonathan Swift, D.D., ed. Temple Scott, vol. v, 1901, p. 480.

41. John Macky, A Journey through England, 1722, vol. i, pp. 167–9.

42. The Letters of Horace Walpole, ed. Mrs. Paget Toynbee, vol. ii, 1903, p. 207.

43. Information supplied by Mr. B. Lillywhite from an original letter of 10 Oct. 1787 addressed to 'Mr. Griffith, Pall Mall, London'.